there's no place like home

so last night, after deciding that i felt well enough to venture out into yet another rainy czech night, a group of us went to see 'the da vinci code'. after reserving our seats online, (SPECIFIC seats, at that) we headed to Mustek, which is a metro stop at the entrance to Wenceslas Square, where we believed the movie theatre was. However, after standing lost in the rain for about 15 minutes and asking multiple czech people we realized that we were on the wrong side of town. To top this off, contrary to newspapers and the internet, apparently there is only one movie theatre in all of Prague.

I stop my description of the night there momentarily to ask, is this a ruse that the whole city of Prague is in on? How can they have showtimes for FIVE different movie theatres and ADDRESSES and DIRECTIONS and yet have people look at you funny when you ask where they are. Prague, why must you toy with me!

Regardless, we soon found the other theatre and as we walked in I felt really homesick. Not only that though, I felt nostalgic. How can you feel nostalgic for something that was around a month ago? Isn't nostalgia supposed to kick in like 50 years later, while listening to Elvis and wearing saddle shoes? It's just funny because to me, seeing a movie isn't just about seeing the movie. It's about getting the popcorn and seeing everyone who is working or watching it with an iced cap and doughnuts after work.

The thing that added to this nostalgia, and it was more that than homesickness, was the realization that, while our two cultures may be infinitely different, a movie theatre is a movie theatre and was exactly as ours was at home. The verdict is still out on whether that is a good thing, or if it is a dangerous result of globalization but for that moment, i was so glad for it.

As for the movie, well let's just say, Mr. Hanks, you won't be receiving an Oscar for that. But the experience, (the seats were more plush and comfortable than Strawberry Hill and the washrooms- don't get me started. Each stall is like a double wide, super clean with gorgeous tile and wooden doors. And the sinks were like the one's out of Mr. and Mrs. Smith where they are above the counter...very cool.) well, it was worth every penny to bridge the cultural gap so to speak.


For those who don't work at the theatre, this may sound odd but its true...i've always said, there's just something about that place. We strolled in at 10:30, the concession stand was about to close. Since there were so many of us and we were taking awhile trying to muddle through the Czech menu, the line behind us grew. I saw the guy off to the side who was cleaning the popcorn warmer kind of look up, sigh at the line, and reopen his till to help out the one girl who was left.

And I knew exactly what he was thinking.

words create worlds

hello world, it's me jessica.

i am just writing to tell you that giving me a stomach flu of sorts was a funny way to punctuate my bad week, but now i am no longer laughing. i promise to love prague with all my heart if you promise to turn my karma around.

thank you very much,

j "this week has been a write-off" d

this is better than bob ross!

Hello kidlets,

This past 24 hours has been a little rough, i'm not going to lie. I am having an i-hate-prague day actually.

Yesterday we went on another jaunt with Vaclav. This time, however, we journeyed far into the deep forests of western bohemia. I, being the intelligent person that i am, decided to wear flip flops. Mistake #1. Vaclav, besides being a humanities superhero, has lungs of steel. Or gills. Or something that breathes easily. But i digress. We ended up hiking up what could have been the Grouse Grind, before they put the nice little steps in. Outdoorsy stops like this took up most of our ten hour day and upon arrival at home i discovered that i had picked up...A TICK. Not only is that the most horrifying thing ever, but after I got it removed I began to wonder, what if there are more ticks on me in places i can't see? What if it bit me and i ended up with the incurable phenomenon that is lyme disease? These thoughts and more will continue to plague me until i am safely out of the Czech Republic. Not only is this the country of stairs, but also it is widely known for its TICK infestation. *shudder*

As well, the hot water tank in the place we are staying blew. So for the past two days I have been alternating between washing in the sink and having the coldest showers of my life. On top of that, today in class it was revealed that we have two more papers due, bringing this semesters grand total to...SEVEN. Seven thoughtful, mid-length papers written using little to no resources. Right. Finally, the food is starting to get to me. If i eat one more creamy, spinachy or starchy (i.e- PASTA) dish again, i may, in fact, die.

Now that my spolied whining is out of the way, i am going to briefly reflect on our tour of the monastary in western bohemia. It is the second oldest monastary in Europe and it was really impressive. At this point in my European adventure I have seen quite a few churches, castles, museums etc, but my tired tourist eyes still found something to be impressed with. Again, here is a place where tourism does not run rampant. Here is a place where, when walking in cloisters, i literally felt as though a man in black robe could be walking right behind me. That sounds a bit terrifying actually, but you get my point. It really seems as though the monks are on a momentary vacation and could return at any moment.

I found, however, that as I wandered through dining halls with place settings still out, libraries filled with books and hallways lined with stone carvings i felt an intense desire to reach out and touch these relics of the past. To run my fingers over the old books, to move the steel plate around on the table.

Where does this desire come from?

Is it part of my western programming to consume products, to take them in chew them up and spit them out? Am I so numb to the history and the atmosphere that to me, this monastary is just another cultural fun house with props and costumes placed for my pleasure? Or by touching the history, am I attempting to manage the unknown, the 'otherness' of this place, this country? Am I trying to give myself a context to work within this unfathomable history?

I know there are people I am travelling with, for example, that have travelled to China and actually physically taken a piece of the great wall home with them. Do they feel that without this physical evidence, that experience or memory will cease to exist? As if our culture of consumerism has trained us to believe that without a physical token or souvenir the experience is somehow less valid, or will even slip away from us.

Not to mention our history of conquest and colonialism. By taking a piece of the great wall, or by touching books from thousands of years ago are we not colonizing it, placing our flag on it and claiming that memory, that 'other', in the name of us--a name we can digest and understand?

How's that for food for thought?

"where is deutschland?"

Where to begin, where to begin.

Once upon a time it was last Wednesday... (enter lilting music and a dreamlike fadeaway...are you still with me?)

Wednesday night we went to an Afghan restaurant as a group and, despite my apprehension, the food was delicious. After that we walked around for a bit, but eventually Me, Stacie, Kris and Geremy split off and headed back to the Kolej. We ended up buying a bottle of wine and heading to the castle to sit and talk. (This was recommended by Vaclav, who is the professor that takes us on all our walking trips. Literally, the most intelligent person ever. A Humanities superhero, really. I think he even knows the meaning of life.) We talked about all sorts of things and laughed a lot. To be honest with you, it was the first time I felt like I was going to be o.k on this trip. I think we are all just looking for people to connect with, our niche so to speak. At the risk of being cliquey, I think I may have found my place for the next six weeks.

Fast forward to Friday, where during our morning film class we watched an artsy Czech film that I found quite offensive actually. I probably missed the main message but there was a lot of overt sexual behaviour and religious blasphemy. Didn't really do it for me, needless to say. However, after that six of us headed for the train station to head to Vienna for the weekend. The train ride was an experience--two of the strong-minded leader types in our group butted heads the entire time as first we went to the wrong train station (who knew there was more than one in Prague?) and ended up in a car that was unbearably hot. Apparently the AC was broken, much to my chagrin. We made it to Vienna in one piece though and from the minute we stepped into the hostel I felt infinitely better--about this trip, about my trip afterwards, everything. We stayed at Wombats, and it was their first day open. It might as well have been a deluxe spa for the luxury we go. Brand new everything, free internet, free drinks at the bar IN THE HOSTEL. This is Melody and I enjoying something other than our uncomfortable Kolej beds.

Fast forward again to Saturday night--the people from our group who took the bus arrived
ran-tan: can I just say that despite the horrible-ness of the train ride and I am happy that I did that, now I feel better about travelling around after...and it was a TRAIN, not a bus. Which really is the biggest trumping factor.
Anyway, Stacie and Melody and I had been shopping all day and so, decked out in our newest Austrian fashions, we joined the rest of the crew for what I have now lovingly dubbed as 'the night where everyone finally shows their real personalities'. Many of the girls in our group picked up some guys at the hostel and so by the time we headed to the first bar (called Pandora's Box, that should have been our first clue), our group had reached about twenty people. Stacie, Geremy, Kris and I managed to stay out of the way of the OLD BIKER MEN that apparently frequent the bar though, and found a pretty cool corner where the black light made my drink look pretty appealing. The bathroom was an experience, there was no girls washroom and the stall in the guys bathroon was pretty ghetto. I'm talking tiles-falling-off-the-walls-no toilet-seat ghetto. I got Kris to guard the door and when I came out he literally pushed me out because five old biker men had come in and were peeing. It was gross. Him and I also had a pretty good talk re: how much we miss our significant others back home. I checked my email a bunch of times on the trip. Still no word from Adam...soon enough I'm sure.

Eventually we migrated to another weird trance club. But I left pretty soon after that. I lost a lot of the girls to the texans, the australians and the guys from detroit. Very scandalous. Also on the walk there, a MOUSE crossed my path. Rodent sighting #1. I shudder at the very thought.

To make this entry EVEN LONGER, I'm going to fast forward to Sunday afternoon where Stacie, Geremy, Kris and I went PADDLE BOATING in the Danube River. Fun, but uneventful except we saw a swan and were almost attacked by a mallard. He swooped down!!
Add duck to the list of things I am afraid of.

With that, the Vienna trip came to a close. But not before taking the night train back to Prague. You back at home might think that a train in glamourous but let me dispel ANY of these romantic notions. "I can see why there was a murder on the Orient Express". We had to switch trains at one in the morning and sit in THIS station. A happy camper, I was not. I am sure you can fully understand the terror of this station. It was as though someone had dropped it down in the middle of nowhere. We (stupidly) explored the underground part of it, as we had a good 40 minute wait. There was no station! Just more, empty platforms! Imagine, being by yourself there. All scary movies I have ever seen would be playing simultaneously in my head. Needless to say, I was not impressed.

Alas, despite all this, here I am safe and sound back 'home' in the Kolej. Vienna was magnificent, the shopping was lovely. I definately felt more alive there than I have in Prague. For me, you see, it's as though I have been trying to live partially in Vancouver, and partially in Prague at the same time. Now, though, with 'friends' here, a 'vacation' under my belt and the love of my life finally on the same continent as me, i think i've finally been able to dig in some roots here. Or at least a stable support system. And for the first time since the beginning of May I finally feel like maybe I am meant to do this.

Well thanks for reading the longest post of my life. I promise next time- short and funny!
Also, may I just reiterate now how much more I love German than Czech!?
"Entshudegun bitte"

Guten nacht,
jd

this city is claustrophobic

i was talking earlier about globalization and thinking that the culture is so rich here that perhaps it will be able to combat westernization and exist on its own terms. however, today as we were driving down the highway i had another thought. we passed a couple BIG stores, a best-buy look alike called "electro world" and a home depot looking place called OBI.

**('ran-tan' (a.k.a-random tangent): it's interesting how we try to compartmentalize our thoughts or make connections to comforts and familiarities that we can relate to. i find i've been doing that a lot--'oh, that's like a costco' or "oh that's like this restaurant". it's almost like its never given a chance to exist on its own terms...food for thought.) **

Anyway, my thought was that maybe in this post-communist country, that is trying to figure out its identity, and trying to figure out how to exist within that unique identity, maybe it is that they have more of a distinct history than a continuous culture. and maybe it is an overblown depiction of that history that we see emulated in the buildings and the cathedrals. maybe the prague that is for the people of prague is in limbo somewhere between westernization and the days of the old bohemian country. maybe they are still trying to modernize, and modernize to them takes on a western flavour.

i think that it will be interesting to compare this country to a country like france. for a culture and a continent that is supposed to be so far ahead in style and what not from north america, the czech republic still feels as if its playing catch-up. and not in a 'we're not going to become a western/globalized/modern country' but in a 'we desperately want to be like these other coutries, be it great britain or america, but we're just not there yet'. This is a beautiful country, but i also feel the claustrophobia that kafka conveys in his writing. it is dense. it is crowded. and i really feel that it is in limbo.

Why a country like france would be an interesting comparison: (and i will correct myself when i discover otherwise) the identity of france is firmly established, they haven't been through any violent revolutions in the past while--they are a culture that is engrained. at the same time, they are very modern, but in a different way. and i don't think they fall back on their history to define themselves.

This is such a western biased piece. Maybe I need to travel through some eastern countries...but like i said before, the experience i get anywhere is going to be second hand. I can fool myself all i want into believing that i am living the prague life first hand but the reality is, i am not. And i truly believe that it would be an act of futility to deny the fact that we are tourists. no matter what.

if you have participated in a voo doo cult...

good evening all,

it is thundering and lightening. I am hoping that this is the end of the rainy spell because i would like further opportunity to become a crisp golden brown before my skin is shocked by the mediterranean.

today was a long day, as tuesdays will be from now on. we went on an excusion to kutna hora, which is about an hour and a half outside of prague. we took a very homely bus with a very nice but very crazy czech driver. kutna hora is basically a touristy village, known for the fact that it has more cathedrals than prague. This is one of them. (I'm trying a new photo format, in case anyone was curious).

We had quite a while to wander around and then we went to an italian place for lunch. I tell you, i've eaten more italian here than even at home.
From the left, that's melody, vicki, me (obviously, looking fabulously fresh), melissa and stacie. After this wonderful little jaunt, we headed to a nearby charnal house, of which the inside was decorated with the bones of 14, 000 people. With some you could see the inside of the bone. FULL OF HOLES. Freaked me right out.

all in all it was kind of a creepy day. However, there was a nice moment on the way home. It randomly started to downpour so we all ran to the bus. Most people fell asleep on the way home but i was awake for most of it. Finally i was hit with a feeling of family, or at least community, if only for that one little moment of gossip-free-sleep-induced-innocence. with the mist coming of the open fields, well...it was nice.

that's all, and in the meanwhile "watch out for the tourists, they are the theives of the atmosphere"
jd

get your prague on

hello hello

well, tonight we did something very canadian. we all got gussied up and trudged in the rain (yes, more rain) to a bar down the street for some beer (fanta for me) and some....hockey!!! yes, the czechs played the canadians and boy did we get out played. the czechs in the bar gave us a bit of a hard time (all in good fun) and as we were leaving they were sure to tell us that we would win "maybe next time". Oh bonding over hockey.

other than that i played hermit again and sat inside to read. (by read i clearly mean procrastinate). i didn't get a very good sleep last night which could have partially led to my lack of motivation for action, as i ate bad schnitzel. that's it for foreign food for me. bring on the grilled cheese sandwiches.

i have come to a realization today amidst my doodling and umpteenth room re-organization. i am terrified of the week between when i leave here and before i meet adam. or, not so much terrified, as i have learned even now a lesson or two in trusting myself and being independant while doing so. no, the aspect that i struggled with is more an intense feeling of 'what would i do?' i, as a rule, do not do well in 'meet new people' situations and certainly i am not enough of a partier to go out with the aforementioned new people and have a drink. so then, do i wander around the city (i planned to go to venice) all by my lonesome? Venice, potentially one of the top three most romantic places in the whole world and there i am sipping an iced tea all alone in a gondola. and not just for one day, no- three glorious never-can-have-too-much-time-for-myself days.

but i digress, i mean im in europe for goodness sakes. can i really expect any pity? no, i will just need to find a plan b. or a person b to keep me compan-ee. any suggestions?

tired, time for sleep.

over and out,
jd

visualize this:

so, among other things, this episode will have a visual component. in fact, it might as well be a tv show. about me. this picture above it the view from the Charles Bridge at night. That night was a little sketchy because Melody and I walked down there alone and were approached by a giant mohawk but we are fabulous and survived unharmed.

Let's see what other adventures I have up my sleeve for all you loyal viewers... Ah yes, this. If you tilt your head you can see the fabulous gothic cathedral inside the castle. This is where I go to write in my journal. It's all very european. you should all try it sometime.

One final picture before I launch into the real meat and potatoes of this....

drumroll please.....

This is where Franz Kafka lived. Apparently this is a big deal. I've never read any Kafka but the Humanities students say he's "amaaazing" (just like that, extra emphasis on the second 'a'). I just though it was a precious small house.

It rained today. Very Vancouver of you, Praha, very Vancouver.

A few aesthetic observations of the Czech Republic:
1. The women do not mind wearing intensely short skirts. This would be ok if most of them had the legs to pull it off.
2. The city generally smells of urine or other bodily fluids. This is common for big cities I know, but today it was rather prominent and thus, worthy of note.
3. For some reason Czech people feel that the mullet is a wise and stylish hairstyle. I feel as though, if there was one thing I would impose my western culture upon it would be to inform them that, in fact, the mullet is "hideous". Particularly when dyed pink. Jem called, she wants her hair back.

That's all for today kidlets.
Until next time, keep fit and have fun.

globalization, live and in the flesh

Hello, hello!

Well, the first week has been completed. Not an easy task by any means. Currently I have laundry hanging across the entire "flat". Not only is this interesting because my underwear is draped for all to see but also this is interesting because I, in fact, did my own laundry. IN A SINK. Oh that this constitutes a note of achievement in a blog about my time in Europe.

Last night I was feeling kinda down so a bunch of us went to a bar near the Kolej. After 2/3 of a beer I decided that I really am NOT a beer drinker, no matter how cheap it really is. This was a good discovery. Also, I am again amazed at how people can drink EVERYWHERE. School. The Street. It's madness!

Ah yes, what does this have to do with globalization you may be thinking. Well friends, the answer is nothing. But I will mention that there are copious amounts of McDonalds and KFC's (of all things) out and about in this city. These are pretty much the only chain restaurants (if you can dignify them with that term) that exist over here. Everything else is precious and a one time shot. Also, I heard the black eyed peas singing from within a store today. Granted it was in this really touristy area--(Wensceles Square- probably not spelt right--huge though, kind of like a Times Square, oh when oh when will I get to New York???) The thing about this though, is that it's for the tourists. I know there are those that believe this rash of americanization is going to wipe out other cultures but to me it seems that this is not a huge problem. Culture here is an actual thing. People have traditions and a history that is almost unfathomable for a north America that started in like, the 17th century. There are still buildings here from before years were written with four digits!

The disconcerting thing, however, is the commodification of this culture. I have such a cynical view of tourism right now and perhaps its just the communications student in me but its true. The number of tour groups and ignorant americans I've seen thus far who buy the "cultural experience" that fits their version of Prague is ridiculous. But in essence, thats what tourism is. Little shops and sights set up to serve those who are buying a "Czech cultural experience". Signs on restaurants advertising "authentic Czech cuisine". What is "authentic"? This whole concept is just so fake to me. It's like a cultural theme park, which more and more people continually buy into. And this is not to say that I am any different. I've sought out the only North American food on the menu (french fries- never underestimate their value). I've taken pictures of the castle and the bridge and the buidling and the cobblestone streets. I've ridden the metro with "actual Czech people", all the while feeling as though I have a good grip on "this whole Prague thing".
The thing is, the only "authentic" culture you can really experience is the one you grew up in. And as a homesick Canadian girl, thousands of miles from home...well, that sounds damn fine to me.

"czech it out"

Hello from Praha, or should I say "Ahoj" (pronounced "ahoy", I'm staying in a city of pirates).

I thought I would write and update you on the journey thus far. (Briefly, my time is precious).
Random side note: That is the first time I have said 'precious' while being here. Apparently to me, everything in the Czech Republic is 'intense'.

Prague is such a beautiful city, a real archaeological of all the layers of European history. Right near the Kolej (Pronounced "Kolay") which is the ex-soviet military barracks-"bare" is right- is the famous gothic cathedral. Surrounding that is a more baroque style castle and just off the road from that is Kafka's house. Honestly, I've never seen anything like it. The buildings are just so...historical. I will post pictures soon.

We did manage to get downtown the other day and had a run-in with a terrifying Czech security guard who wanted to search my bag as I was leaving the Czech version of Walmart. Plenty of happy faces there were not. I had visions of having to phone Samir (the prof) and ask him to come bail me out of a Czech holding cell.

One more thing before I wrap this up, they drink beer everywhere here. And it's cheaper than water-in fact, one beer is just under one dollar canadian in most places. I have yet to buy into this as the taste of beer makes me want to gag but who knows, i may be really broke one day :)

That's all for this edition of Jessica: Prague edition.
Tune in next time and until then, goodnight and goodluck

-jd

V-Day

Well, I leave in t-minus 2hours and 30 minutes. There is still "packable materials" all over my living room floor. My IPOD doesn't have all my music on it. I was hoping to clean my room. But what does all that matter right? This time tomorrow I'll be traipsing around the cobblestoned streets of the Czech Republic.

I'm really going to miss it here.